American tuna : the rise and fall of an improbable food /

Food writer/historian Smith (New School) charts the history of tuna consumption in the US from its initial widespread unpopularity to its transition to the most consumed seafood in the country, and the decline of the US tuna industry in the last few decades. In part 1, "Rise," the author discusses how tuna was perceived as an unappetizing food of the poor and immigrant communities until manufacturers developed a process to debone and render the oil from albacore tuna that resulted in a mild-tasting canned fish that "looks like chicken." Smith also describes the cultural impact of tuna in the US, for example, "anti-Asian sentiment" due to the increase of native Japanese fishermen in the early 20th century in the US. In part 2, "Fall," Smith chronicles the vagaries of the US tuna industry. He discusses factors such as concentrations of mercury in tuna, regulations for dolphin safety, and labor costs, which all affected the decrease in tuna's popularity; today the big three US tuna brands are owned by foreign companies. American Tuna is a well-researched, highly readable account of an important part of the US food culture and business. Summing Up: Highly recommended. General readers and lower- and upper-division undergraduates. S. C. Hardesty Georgia State University