Fish on a First-Name Basis Introduction Here There Be Fishes I like fish. No great mystery there (that is my name on the cover), but it's not just the taste that has me hooked. Fish are fascinating long before they reach the plate. From the time they're born to the moment of truth on my tongue the life of the average fish (or shellfish) is an excellent story, full of twists and turns, action and adventure, and even the occasional courtroom drama. It's a fun tale, and one that I am more than happy to tell. Ladies and gentlemen, allow me to introduce your dinner ... T his book is the direct result of an encounter with a squid steak sandwich. It was hot, too hot to eat right off, which is how I found myself pondering my meal lest I singe my taste buds. Let's see ... a squid large enough to build a sandwich around probably didn't come from local waters. Mexico? Hawaii? The Pacific, parts unknown? I wonder how old it was. Did it swim a good life? Travel much? And what about that below sea level address? Did it dive to great depths or slip through the sunny surface waters? Was it days or weeks since it last shot beneath the waves squirting ink at would-be predators and sinking its beak into prey of its own? Months? In a few minutes my lunch had a bio that included battling baby sperm whales and eluding schools of hungry tiger sharks. The wife, three bites into her chicken marinara, suggested I might want to seek professional help. I wrote a book instead. What's in a Name? In addition to first names, I've also included the scientific names for all of the fish found in this book. The system for creating these names was developed in 1758 by Carl von Linné (more commonly known as Linnaeus) and breaks down into two parts, the genus and species. The fact that most names are derived from Latin or Greek roots has nothing to do with keeping the riffraff out of the sciences. (Or so the scientists would have us believe.) Learn me about some fish Where's the Trout? Unfortunately, there are too many fish in the sea, or at least too many to fit in a book like this one. The species found within were chosen (more or less) because they're the most popular and readily available fish and shellfish at most markets. No, you probably won't find every one at your favorite shop, but whatever's missing is only a few clicks away online and usually just as fresh. Enough with the calamari cliffhanger--what you really want to know is this: How do I cook it? I hear ya. Let's get that out of the way early, shall we? Buy the freshest fish or shellfish you can find and cook it as little as possible. Yes, it's that simple. Granted, there are a few details that need to be addressed--how fresh is fresh and what exactly does that look like? What about fresh frozen or frozen at sea? In terms of time, how little is long enough? Is that in minutes or seconds? If I told you now, would you keep reading? Exactly. The truth is every fish is unique. All may be best served fresh and fast, but each species has its own ideal set of guidelines for getting there. No, that doesn't mean memorizing a bunch of Latin names or overwritten procedurals, but it does mean getting to know each fish on a first name basis. Will knowing that catfish have taste buds covering every inch of their bodies really make your dinner taste better? Yes. Yes, it will. (And if it doesn't, it'll at least make you more fun at parties.) A round of applause About those Numbers It's hard to write about fish without mentioning numbers and there are a lot of them in this book (both fish and numbers). I've tried to be as accurate as possible when it comes to fish counts and catch totals, but each new season means new numbers, which may or may not look like last year's figures. Thanks to all the fishermen and fishmongers who took the time to answer my questions, no matter how dumb. Thanks to Joe and Steve at Chesapeake Fish Company in San Diego for the tour. Thanks to Race Street Seafood & Poultry in San Jose for all the fish (and one turkey) over the years, and to Newman's Fish Market in Portland for what is hands down the freshest fish in town. Thanks to Alton, Dana, and Tamie for the crash course on how to write about food. Thanks to Dave and Tako the Octopus for getting me into this mess in the first place. Thanks to John Parsley at Thomas Dunne Books for actually getting a green light on a fish book. Big thanks to Michael Psaltis for setting the hook and stumbling around Fulton Street at four in the morning to look at fish. Thanks to Dad for taking me fishing. Thanks to Mom for inspiration, information, and being my second in the kitchen. Finally, thanks to Sue for patience, for printing, and for putting up with all those fish. The book is done. Let's go get a steak. No, not you, dear reader. For you, it's all about the fish! FISH ON A FIRST-NAME BASIS. Copyright (c) 2006 by Rob DeBorde. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. For information, address St. Martin's Press, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10010. Excerpted from Fish on a First-Name Basis: How Fish Is Caught, Bought, Cleaned, Cooked, and Eaten by Rob DeBorde All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.
