Planet taco : a global history of Mexican food /

In this meticulously researched and comprehensive work, Pilcher (Univ. of Minnesota) contends that the search for an authentic Mexican cuisine is complicated by the diversity of regional cuisines; by distinct cultural considerations, including the influences of indigenous, Creole, and aristocratic segments of Mexican society; and by the tensions between globalization and the quest for a nationalist identity. Central to this search for authenticity has been the taco, a simple and versatile food, which Mesoamericans and their descendants have eaten in one form or another for a millennium. Ironically, though, the taco did not emerge as a symbol of authentic Mexican cuisine until the 20th century through its appropriation by globalized fast-food giants like Taco Bell. Pilcher's concluding chapter provides a masterful analysis of the elements that shape and impinge upon the quest for food authenticity in general. Readers interested in the subject might also profit from How Italian Food Conquered the World by food journalist John Mariani (CH, Nov'11, 49-1699). Less academic and less well researched than Planet Taco, Mariani's narrative nonetheless provides an eminently readable and intelligent account of the appropriation of authentic Italian food to satisfy the American palate. Summing Up: Highly recommended. All levels/libraries. D. M. Gilbert Maine Maritime Academy

At least north of the border, the taco has become Mexican cuisine's standard, ubiquitous staple. But just as American pizza displays only the most meager resemblance to its Neapolitan forebear, today's prefabricated, industrial, portion-controlled, fast-food taco has little to do with the artisanal, freshly made, delicately creased, and inventively stuffed corn tortilla of its native land. As Pilcher discovers, the taco is a relative newcomer to the Mexican diet, the first references appearing only in the late nineteenth century. Moreover, the taco represents only one aspect of a sophisticated cuisine that has evolved into a major influence in world cookery. Nevertheless, tacos now appear in cities all around the globe, and hardly a food court or restaurant row exists anywhere that doesn't have some sort of taco-based item on a menu. Pilcher's detailed history rests on meticulous research, as evidenced by the comprehensive bibliography. Glossary of Mexican cooking terms included.--Knoblauch, Mark Copyright 2010 Booklist

Few will be able to resist chowing down after reading this mostly accessible history of Mexican food. Pilcher (Food in World History), a history professor at the University of Minnesota, makes it clear that "Mexican food, like the Mexican nation, was the product of globalization." Accordingly, he tracks the spread of Mexican cuisine from the kitchens of indigenous Mexicans, to the taco trucks of the American Southwest, to Old El Paso canned goods in Tokyo supermarkets, and beyond. Among Pilcher's many case studies are the intriguing tales of racial tensions surrounding an L.A. taco shop's "African Tacos," which were stuffed with black-eyed peas; and that of Thomas Estes, a young American gym teacher who opened "Europe's first Mexican restaurant," stocked with paraphernalia donated by the Pacífico brewery, in Amsterdam in 1976. Many of Pilcher's anecdotes are entertaining and informative, but the glut of stories too often leaves the author with little time to do justice to each. Nevertheless, folks looking to supplement their favorite meal with some food for thought need look no further. 46 photos. (Sept.) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.