Waves, tides, and shallow-water processes /

Waves, tides, and shallow-water processes /

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Bibliographic Details
Edition:2nd ed. / revised for the course team by John Wright, Angela Colling, and Dave Park.
Imprint:Oxford ; Boston : Butterworth-Heinemann, in association with the Open University, 1999.
Description:227 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 26 cm.
Language:English
Subject:
Waves.
Tides.
Tides.
Waves.
Format: Print Book
URL for this record:http://pi.lib.uchicago.edu/1001/cat/bib/6486287
Hidden Bibliographic Details
Other authors / contributors:Wright, John.
Colling, Angela.
Park, Dave.
Open University. Oceanography Course Team.
ISBN:0750642815
9780750642811
Notes:Includes bibliographical references (p. 203) and index.
Table of Contents:
  • About This Volume
  • About This Series
  • Chapter 1. Waves
  • 1.1. What Are Waves?
  • 1.1.1. Types of waves
  • 1.1.2. Wind-generated waves in the ocean
  • 1.1.3. The fully developed sea
  • 1.1.4. Wave height and wave steepness
  • 1.2. Surface Wave Theory
  • 1.2.1. Motion of water particles
  • 1.2.2. Wave speed
  • 1.2.3. Wave speed in deep and in shallow water
  • 1.2.4. Assumptions made in surface wave theory
  • 1.3. Wave Dispersion and Group Speed
  • 1.4. Wave Energy
  • 1.4.1. Propagation of wave energy
  • 1.4.2. Attenuation of wave energy
  • 1.4.3. Swell
  • 1.4.4. Uses of wave energy
  • 1.5. Waves Approaching the Shore
  • 1.5.1. Wave refraction
  • 1.5.2. Waves breaking upon the shore
  • 1.6. Waves of Unusual Character
  • 1.6.1. Waves and currents
  • 1.6.2. Giant waves
  • 1.6.3. Tsunamis
  • 1.6.4. Seiches
  • 1.7. Measurement of Waves
  • 1.7.1. Satellite observations of waves
  • 1.8. Summary of Chapter 1
  • Chapter 2. Tides
  • 2.1. Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Moon System
  • 2.1.1. Variations in the lunar-induced tides
  • 2.2. Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Sun System
  • 2.2.1. Interaction of solar and lunar tides
  • 2.3. The Dynamic Theory of Tides
  • 2.3.1. Prediction of tides by the harmonic method
  • 2.4. Real Tides
  • 2.4.1. Tides and tidal currents in shallow seas
  • 2.4.2. Storm surges
  • 2.4.3. Tides in rivers and estuaries
  • 2.4.4. Tidal power
  • 2.5. Summary of Chapter 2
  • Chapter 3. Introduction to Shallow-Water Environments and Their Sediments
  • 3.1. Sediments of Shallow-Water Environments
  • 3.1.1. The supply of sediments to shelf seas and oceans
  • 3.1.2. Variations in supply and distribution of sediments over time
  • 3.2. Summary of Chapter 3
  • Chapter 4. Principles and Processes of Sediment Transport
  • 4.1. Factors Controlling the Movement of Sediment
  • 4.1.1. Frictional forces and the boundary layer
  • 4.1.2. Cohesive and non-cohesive sediments
  • 4.2. Sediment Erosion, Transport and Deposition
  • 4.2.1. Erosion of cohesive sediments and yield strength
  • 4.2.2. The concept of shear velocity
  • 4.2.3. The viscous sublayer
  • 4.2.4. Velocity profiles in the sea
  • 4.2.5. Shear velocity and the behaviour of non-cohesive sediments
  • 4.2.6. Rates of sediment transport
  • 4.3. The Deposition of Sediment
  • 4.3.1. Deposition of the bedload
  • 4.3.2. Deposition of the suspended load
  • 4.4. Bed Forms
  • 4.5. Summary of Chapter 4
  • Chapter 5. Beaches
  • 5.1. The Morphology of Beaches
  • 5.1.1. Beach profiles in relation to grain size and wave steepness
  • 5.2. Sediment Movement in the Beach Zone
  • 5.2.1. Orbital velocities and bed shear stress
  • 5.2.2. Sediment movement by waves
  • 5.2.3. Longshore sediment transport by wave-generated currents
  • 5.2.4. Rip currents
  • 5.3. Dynamic Equilibrium of Sediment Supply and Removal
  • 5.4. Summary of Chapter 5
  • Chapter 6. Estuaries
  • 6.1. Sediment Distribution in Estuaries
  • 6.1.1. Aggregation of sediment in estuaries
  • 6.2. Tidal Channels of Estuaries
  • 6.2.1. The estuarine continuum
  • 6.2.2. Regions of freshwater influence
  • 6.2.3. Sedimentation in estuaries
  • 6.2.4. Estuaries in low latitudes
  • 6.2.5. The dynamic balance of estuaries
  • 6.3. Lagoons, Tidal Flats and Barrier Islands
  • 6.4. Summary of Chapter 6
  • Chapter 7. Deltas
  • 7.1. Delta Morphology
  • 7.2. Mixing and Sediment Deposition at Distributary Mouths
  • 7.2.1. The deltaic continuum
  • 7.3. The Effects of Human Activities on Deltas
  • 7.4. Summary of Chapter 7
  • Chapter 8. Shelf Seas
  • 8.1. Shelf Sea Processes
  • 8.1.1. Coastal and ocean currents
  • 8.1.2. The effects of waves and of bioturbation
  • 8.2. Sediment Transport and Deposition in Some Shelf Seas
  • 8.3. The Shelf Sea System From Shore to Shelf Break
  • 8.4. Summary of Chapter 8
  • Suggested Further Reading
  • Answers and Comments to Questions
  • Acknowledgments
  • Index
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